A Chinese film about a chef caught in the crossfire of a war between the US and a Middle Eastern country has become the latest box-office hit in China, with many lauding its anti-war message.

The film, “Once Upon a Time in the Middle East,” or “Welcome to Loong Restaurant” in Chinese, premiered on Tuesday, taking more than 484 million yuan ($72 million) at the box office as of Friday. Film market database Beacon projects total earnings of 3.5 billion yuan, which would make it one of China’s top-grossing films this summer. 

Filmed in both China and Egypt and starring renowned Chinese comedian Shen Teng, the movie follows Xu Fu, a Chinese chef who moves to Bahata, the fictional capital of an unnamed Middle Eastern country. Using a mix of drama and dark humor, the film is a retrospective, depicting Xu opening his Loong Restaurant in 2002 to pay off family debts, with his business gradually paying off as it becomes a popular local eatery.

But the restaurant’s prosperity is upended when war between the country and the US breaks out. As the violence escalates, the eatery becomes a refuge for local orphans — one of whom, Seif, is taught to cook by Xu. Xu, meanwhile, transforms from a man simply trying to make money to the provider of a safe haven.

The film stars both Chinese and Egyptian actors, speaking Chinese, Arabic, and English. Laowang, an Iraqi influencer, known in China for a video which went viral in the country in 2024, also makes an appearance. 

Wen Muye, the film’s director and best known for his acclaimed 2018 dark comedy “Dying to Survive,” said he got the idea for “Once Upon a Time in the Middle East” by reflecting on the general suffering of children in wartime. 

Seeking to explore war from the perspective of an average Chinese person, Wen told domestic media he drew inspiration from news reports about Chinese migrants who opened restaurants overseas. Wen said he also traveled to the Middle East prior to filming to better understand locals’ perspectives.

“Food, above all, represents happiness and peace,” Wen told domestic media. “Even amid the chaos of war, people still need three meals a day. It may sound simple, but in coming into the world and leaving it, in sickness and old age, what people ultimately care about are these most basic things: having a good meal and taking care of their families.”

Viewers have noted that the backdrop of “Once Upon a Time in the Middle East” bears a striking resemblance to the Iraq War, which began in 2003. However, Wen has rejected these claims. 

“The story is set 20 years ago, but I didn’t want to limit it to any particular war,” he said. “Audiences can see it as a story about war and humanity — one that could have happened in the past, or could be happening right now.” 

The film has received largely positive reviews, with a score of 8.4 out of 10 on Chinese review platform Douban. Chinese social media users have commended it for avoiding preachiness, instead allowing audiences to draw their own conclusions about war and the harsh circumstances it fosters.

“What I love about the film is that no character ever stops to tell you what is right or wrong,” one user wrote on lifestyle platform Xiaohongshu, also known as RedNote. “But by the time you leave the theater, you find yourself reflecting on kindness, courage, and what it means to cherish what we have.” 

For lead actor Shen, the film marks a departure from the comedic persona he has built through domestic blockbusters, with his restrained, nuanced performance also drawing praise.

However, not everyone was happy with his serious turn, with critics calling the film’s marketing misleading. Some parents commented on social media that they had taken their children to see “Once Upon a Time in the Middle East” expecting a family-friendly film, only to find scenes of violence and war that they considered unsuitable for young viewers.

Editor: Marianne Gunnarsson.

(Header image: A still from “Once Upon a Time in the Middle East.” From Douban)